Joseph Law

Bumper Content Writer

Alastair Shephard

Content Writer

If your car is suffering from a loss of engine power, there’s a chance your turbo has a fault. Luckily, there are many ways to detect different types of turbo faults, and we’ve collected them all in one place. 

Keep reading to learn about different types of turbos, common faults, as well as how you can detect them before they become too much of a problem for you and your car. 

A turbo (or turbocharger) is a type of forced induction system that is commonly used in modern engines to increase their power output and efficiency. A turbo fault can affect performance, efficiency, and reliability. 

Turbos are an integral part of your car’s engine. They help deliver more power to your drivetrain, improve your car’s fuel efficiency, and reduce your overall emissions – meaning the condition of your car’s turbo will have a significant bearing on its performance. 

Turbos use exhaust gases from the engine and send them through a series of moving turbine wheels. This pressurises the air before introducing it into the engine. 

Before diving into the different turbo types, we’ll quickly define the difference between turbochargers and turbo bearings. 

Both are parts of the complete turbocharger system but oversee different functions. 

Turbochargers are devices that force more air into the engine’s combustion chamber. The main parts of the turbocharger system include a compressor and turbine. 

Turbo bearing refers to the specific bearing within the turbocharger. The bearings are used to support the rotating shaft, reduce friction, and ensure a smooth overall operation. 

What are the different types of turbochargers? 

There are six main styles of turbochargers. Some are designed for high-performance cars, some are more affordable, and some are made for diesel cars. Here are the main types to know: 

What are the different types of turbo bearings? 

Turbos come in two main types: hydrodynamic journal-bearing systems and ball-bearing systems. Here’s a quick rundown of each and their differences. 

Hydrodynamic journal bearings are the more common type of turbo bearing. They’re made of a journal (shaft), which rotates within a sleeve while oil is fed into the sleeve and the journal gap. 

Hydrodynamic journal bearings are more straightforward in design and affordable to manufacture. They’re also very durable and able to handle high loads. 

Ball bearings are a newer innovation in turbo technology. Unlike hydrodynamic journal bearings, this design uses a set of small balls to support the shaft. These reduce friction and provide a smoother operation. 

Like hydrodynamic bearings, ball bearings also need lubrication. However, the design has less friction and surface contact. 

Ball bearings give faster response times, increased efficiency, and reduced turbo lag due to the lower friction levels. This makes them better for high-performance cars. 

Since there are different types of turbos, you need to know which your car has before you fix any faults. There are a few ways to work out what you have, but here are the best options: 

If you’re not comfortable or experienced with car mechanics, you should work with a mechanic to find your turbo type. They can provide professional advice and perform any necessary maintenance. 

Unfortunately, turbochargers fail from time to time. The first step to fixing your turbo is working out the problem. See the most common turbo faults and causes below. 

The oil inside your engine keeps its moving parts lubricated and prevents rust and corrosion. The turbo is no exception – with a gas turbine wheel rotating at high speeds, it's essential that the 

If poor quality or inappropriate oil is used in your car’s engine, the turbo bearings may experience too much friction. Consequently, the turbine won’t be able to rotate correctly. This results in insufficient air being delivered to the engine’s cylinders, therefore reducing engine power. 

It should be noted that even if you use the right sort of oil, over time, it can become contaminated with solid particulates. Similarly, it may evaporate to a point where it’s no longer effective. This is why changing your engine oil every 3000 miles or so is widely recommended - dependent on the manufacturer’s recommendations. 

If something gets caught in your turbo, it can form a blockage that restricts the flow of gases. 

When a turbo becomes restricted in this way, your engine cannot benefit from the pressurised air flow that your turbo is supposed to deliver. Common objects found stuck in turbos include leaves, feathers, and metallic pieces from inside the engine. 

There’s a chance that something has become lodged in your turbo if you notice a significant drop in engine performance combined with a strange clattering or rattling sound coming from your engine. 

The pressure inside the turbo’s compressor determines how much air is being forced into the engine. If the pressure is too low, the engine will receive insufficient air, and the power output will suffer. 

Low compressor pressures can be caused by the compressor wheel either not spinning at all or spinning too slowly. If the compressor wheel isn’t moving, this usually indicates a problem with the bearing inside the turbo. 

However, if the compressor wheel is spinning too slowly, this is likely a result of a blockage in the system, a decrease in engine vacuum, or a problem with the turbo’s wastegate. Significant reductions in engine power or strange engine sounds typically accompany this type of turbo fault. 

4. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) failure 

The EGR system regulates the exhaust gas sent back into the engine. An EGR system is used with a turbo to maintain correct air-fuel ratios within the engine cylinders. 

The engine performance will suffer if the EGR system isn’t working properly, typically caused by sticking in the EGR valves. If not enough exhaust gas is recirculating into the engine, it may have difficulties starting and poor running, leading to the deposition of carbon in the turbo, dramatically affecting its performance. 

On the other hand, too much exhaust gas recirculating into the engine will produce excessive nitrogen oxides and coke, significantly reducing engine efficiencies. 

Suspect you have a turbo fault? Here are some typical signs of a turbocharger problem. 

You should notice an increase in engine power as soon as you press down on the accelerator. If your car feels unusually sluggish, there’s a good chance a faulty turbo is to blame. Remember, the turbo delivers pressurised air into your engine, so any turbo faults will influence engine power. 

Like a loss of engine power, a faulty turbo will result in difficulty accelerating. Acceleration will feel slower and louder, and your car may judder. 

Blue or black smoke coming from your exhaust 

Blue or black smoke from your exhaust is symptomatic of cracks in your turbo’s housing or blown internal seals. These cracks or blown seals will cause oil to leak into your exhaust system, producing distinctive blue or black smoke as it burns off. 

You shouldn’t notice any whistling coming from your car’s turbo. If you do hear a significant amount of whistling, something’s likely wrong. In this instance, turbo faults are usually caused by excessive exhaust gas temperatures. 

Fluid leakage from the turbocharger and other areas

If you notice significant fluid leakage around your engine, your turbocharger is almost certainly the culprit. Different types of fluids can leak from the turbo. The most common leaks are oil and coolant, though it’s also possible for petrol to leak from the turbo. 

As with blue or black smoke, this indicates there are cracks or blown seals in the turbo’s housing. 

Different types of turbos & common faults: The bottom line

A car’s turbocharger is an integral part of the engine that helps to improve performance and fuel efficiency whilst reducing emissions. If your turbocharger isn’t operating properly, you’ll notice reduced engine power, difficulty accelerating, and other symptoms, such as a smoking exhaust or leaking fluid. 

In short, there are many different types of turbo faults, each representing a

If you notice any of the issues described in this article, taking your car to a mechanic for a diagnosis is critical. A turbo replacement can cost upwards of £700, so to make this cost more affordable, split it into monthly payments with 

To apply for a credit limit and see dependable garages and dealerships in your area, enter your vehicle registration and postcode on 

has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

Joseph has written about engineering and cars for Autozilla, Komaspec, and several engineering manufacturers. When he's not writing or tinkering with one of his five cars, Joseph dreams of owning an Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale.

Different Types Of Turbo Faults & How To Detect Them

There are so many types of coolant that it can be difficult to know which is the best coolant to use for your car. Not to worry, in this post, we explain all there is to know about coolant and how to find what coolant to use in your car. 

There are three main categories of engine coolant: Organic (OAT), inorganic (IAT) and Hybrid (HOAT). 

Deciding which one you need for your car can depend on both vehicle age as well as a use case. 

Organic Coolant - Organic Acid Technology (OAT) 

Traditionally used in older cars, this antifreeze uses organic acids as corrosion inhibitors. These prevent bare surfaces in your engine from corroding in normal use. 

Organic corrosion inhibitors last a long time before breaking down. This means they can be left for longer periods between coolant changes. They are often a shade of orange, pink or red. 

Since 1998, almost all car manufacturers stopped using OAT coolants in their vehicles, instead opting for Inorganic versions. 

These use Silicates to prevent corrosion. They are an inorganic (synthesised) additive that protects both iron and aluminium surfaces very quickly. 

A downside of IOAT coolants is their shorter lifespan compared to OAT coolants. They need to be changed and flushed more regularly. 

IOAT coolants are traditionally Blue or Green, the aim of this being that they are not as easily mixed up with OAT coolants. 

As the name suggests, these use a special combination of both organic and inorganic rust inhibitors to provide both long service life, and excellent corrosion resistance. 

 that use both electric and battery power, typically the presence of an electric motor has no effect on what coolant the internal combustion engine needs. 

Toyota is well known for specifying hybrid coolants in its cars, with both pure petrol and hybrid powertrains. 

Colours of hybrid coolants vary with the manufacturer, it is recommended that unless you are sure the current coolant is a HOAT type, you flush the system before adding a hybrid coolant. 

To be 100% sure you are using the right coolant, 

check your owner’s manual for the recommended coolants

. As mentioned above, the right coolant depends on the age, construction and even manufacturer of your car. 

If you use a different coolant than the recommended one it might cause undesired effects. And in some cases, it could even void warranties or finance agreements. 

No. It’s not a good idea to put water in your car. It's a common misconception that pure water is sufficient for a modern engine. The two main reasons are cold temperature performance and rust prevention. 

The most immediate problem is that in climates that drop below freezing, the engine can suffer serious damage if the water inside freezes. Water expands when it freezes, and plain water in your engine will easily crack engine blocks and heads and destroy 

But what if your car will never experience freezing temperatures? Coolant also protects your engine from rust. Whilst the outside of the engine will more often than not be painted, the inside cannot be. 

Corrosion getting into the coolant system can block radiators and cause excessive wear to the water pump.

Modern coolant technologies have both improved the longevity of engines by protecting them better, and also have reduced the level of harmful chemicals leached into the environment. 

This is used as a rust-prevention additive. Often vehicles manufactured in Asia specify phosphate coolants including Honda, Toyota and Nissan. 

Using a Phosphate coolant in another brand is unlikely to do damage, as the phosphate itself aids corrosion protection and longevity of the coolant. 

Commonly used in older engines, specifically diesel. This coincides with the fact that it is not recommended for use in engines made from aluminium. Older engines tend to be made from cast iron or steel. 

Nitrites allow for longer service life in diesel and heavy-duty applications. Most modern Nitrite coolants can be used in modern engines including aluminium ones, as they now contain other additives to regulate the negative effect on the base material. 

Amine is often seen on bottles of coolant, always in the “Doesn’t contain Amine” form, this is because it was found that when reacting with nitrites, it produces a carcinogenic compound called nitrosamine. 

For this reason, it has not been found in any coolants since the 1970s. 

Borate is an additive used to regulate pH, this is more of an issue with Inorganic Coolants where Borate will be more common. Organic or Hybrid Organic coolants don’t suffer the same issues of excessive acidity. 

However, It’s not necessary to avoid borate, as it is not thought to cause any adverse effects, although if you need to use an inorganic coolant it’s a useful addition 

Due to the complex chemical mechanisms designed into modern coolants, and the high levels of care needed to keep modern cars happy, it's never a good idea to mix two different types of coolant. 

What is the right water-to-coolant ratio for my car? 

Most manufacturers recommend around a 40/60 coolant-to-water ratio, in many cases this will protect the engine from freezing temperatures down to -25°C, more than enough for winter in the UK. 

To save storage and transport costs, coolant is sold in concentrated form. There are brands available that are pre-mixed, but when most cars take upwards of 6L, it’s much more convenient to use concentrate. 

The higher the concentration of coolant in water, the lower the temperature at which the coolant will freeze. This is why the ratio of coolant to water differs depending on what time of year it is and the local climate. 

To be sure, check the instructions on your bottle of coolant and work to those guidelines. 

Whilst commonly done, it’s not a good idea to mix tap water with coolant. It's recommended that coolant is mixed with demineralised water. 

This prevents any chemicals in the tap water from interacting with the coolant. Some brands of coolant have modifiers built in to allow for this, though. It’s best to check the label on your brand of coolant. 

How do I check my car’s coolant level? 

It doesn’t matter which coolant you use if it has run out. To check the level, first, locate the expansion tank in your car's engine bay. 

Warning: Never open a coolant tank, expansion tank or radiator cap when the engine is hot. Allow to completely cool. Serious burns could result if the coolant is still hot and therefore pressurised. 

These are usually small plastic, translucent bottles with a plastic black or blue cap. If you’re unsure, consult your car's owner’s manual. To check the level, observe where the water line is through the side of the bottle, in relation to the maximum and minimum marks. 

Top up with prediluted coolant to the required amount. It is recommended to fill the bottle halfway between the max and min marks, but check your owner’s manual for exact details. 

For more information on checking levels, read our guide 

Pay for your car repairs in monthly instalments 

Bumper allows you to split the cost of repairs, services, parts and accessories into monthly payments at no extra cost to you. To apply for a credit limit and

 see dependable garages in your area enter your vehicle registration and postcode.

 has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

What coolant should I use in my car? 

Car ownership involves making important decisions.

While it might seem like a small detail compared to some of the bigger questions you'll have as a car owner, choosing between premium and regular fuel is a big deal, especially when prices in the UK seem ever-increasing.

Premium fuel costs a lot more than cheaper fuels and is marketed with a whole host of benefits. But what exactly is the difference between premium fuel vs regular fuel? What about premium diesel vs regular diesel? Are premium fuels ever worth it? 

Today, we're looking at premium diesel and petrol vs regular fuels to see which you should invest in. Scroll on to get the lowdown on fuel now.

For most people with regular cars, paying for premium fuel is not worth it. 

If you drive a normal petrol or diesel car, splurging on premium fuels will offer you minimal benefit. If you regularly get your car checked and serviced, you should have no problems with engine deposits, and there are no real performance benefits from premium petrol.

Paying for premium petrol is only vital if you drive a high-performance petrol car. You’ll protect your engine from damage and ensure it runs as designed.

How much more expensive is premium petrol?

Premium fuels cost around 10p more per litre than their regular alternatives.

However, this can vary significantly and may further increase with rising fuel costs. For an average car, this equates to £5 more per tank. If you use your vehicle every day and fill it up frequently, this will eventually add up. 

Premium petrol vs regular petrol comparison

Most petrol cars are designed to run perfectly well on regular petrol and will experience

 no significant benefit from using higher octane premium petrol

Understanding the octane number is crucial for every car owner. It's the measure of a fuel’s antiknock properties. A higher octane number means the fuel is more likely to resist engine knocking and is suited for higher-performance engines. This knowledge empowers you to make the right fuel choice for your vehicle. 

A difference in octane number is the key distinguishing factor between premium and regular petrol. Regular petrol is typically rated at an octane number of 95, and premium petrol is rated at 98. 

Using a higher-octane fuel than recommended by your manufacturer isn't likely to harm your vehicle in any way, although it's difficult to justify given the higher costs and lack of benefit. 

As previously mentioned, certain high-performance petrol engines require a higher-octane fuel. This is because these engines typically operate under higher compression ratios and are more prone to knocking. 

Remember, high-octane fuels have superior antiknock properties. Premium petrol is required to ensure these engines' safe and efficient operation. 

What’s the difference between unleaded and super unleaded

Unleaded is the standard petrol available, and you’ll see this at nearly every petrol station. Super unleaded is a higher octane version of standard unleaded. 

For the most part, premium diesel is just marketing fluff. Frequent use offers little tangible benefit to your car. 

So, in this case, it’s not worth paying for premium diesel or super diesel over regular diesel in the UK. 

Unlike petrol engines, diesel engines do not use spark ignition to create power, so fuel quality doesn't affect them the same way. As a result, the octane number isn't a measure of diesel quality. Instead, diesel fuel has a cetane rating, which measures its ignition properties.

You may be familiar with the octane number, but the cetane number is less well-known. Premium diesel fuels aren't advertised with a higher cetane number because diesel engines are designed to run efficiently on the cetane number of standard diesel. Increasing the cetane number doesn't noticeably improve performance.

Premium diesel is differentiated by the presence of engine-cleaning additives, not a higher cetane number. 

For example, BP's Ultimate Diesel features ‘Active technology’ with molecules to combat engine dirt. This is the same for Shell Diesel. All diesel fuels meet a certain standard, and engines are built to perform well with standard diesel. 

Using premium diesel occasionally won’t harm your engine but consistently using it might not be cost-effective. Hopefully, that answers most queries about what’s the difference between normal diesel and premium diesel!

No. Premium diesel isn’t guaranteed to last longer in terms of mileage or fuel efficiency. The main difference is that it usually contains cleaning agents. These can help your engine last longer in the long term but provide no short-term durability benefits. 

Is supermarket diesel as good as branded diesel?

Yes. Supermarket diesel meets the same basic fuel standards as premium or branded diesel. It’s safe for all engines and helps your car run smoothly. It’s also a more cost-effective option.

The only main difference is that some premium diesels have cleaning additives that may potentially reduce engine deposits. 

The easiest way to discover the best fuel for your car is to look at the information on the fuel cap. Here, you’ll find what fuel you need and whether the manufacturer recommends high-octane options. 

You can also check your car’s manual or use an online car checker. Most petrol stations offer a variety of standard and premium fuels, so finding a fuel to suit your needs is straightforward.

If you do want to use premium diesel, the best ones to consider include:

All offer advanced engine cleaning formulas and meet relevant fuel standards. 

Do high-performance cars need premium fuel?

Premium fuel isn’t required for most types of cars but is recommended for some high-performance vehicles. 

Cars with high-performance petrol engines typically require premium petrol to run properly. This is usually made clear by the manufacturer; all cars that are designed to run on premium fuel will have a label on their fuel filler door to indicate this. 

If you ignore this guidance and put cheaper fuel into your high-performance petrol engine, you’ll likely notice reduced performance and efficiency. This might also result in damage to your engine due to excessive knocking. 

Premium diesel is also available, but no vehicles require premium diesel to run well. The main difference between premium and regular diesel is usually the addition of additives. 

These are chemical substances designed to clean the engine, ensuring the engine can run as efficiently as possible.

Knowing what's best for your car can be confusing with a wide range of premium and regular fuel products. For most petrol car owners, using premium petrol regularly will likely result in no performance benefits, and it will cost you a significant amount more than using cheaper fuels.

The only exceptions are high-performance petrol vehicles, where high-octane premium fuels are essential.

Despite the marketing hype around premium diesel, the truth is that regular diesel is the best choice for most diesel car owners. Your car is designed to run on regular diesel, and using premium diesel is unlikely to provide any discernible benefits. 

 offers zero-interest financing on car repairs, perfect for those large car bills. We have many partners nationwide who can fix your car without stress. 

Find your nearest garage using Bumper here.

Premium Fuel vs Regular Fuel: Is Premium Fuel Worth It?

Ultimate, Super Plus, Power & Co.: Ist Premium-Kraftstoff sein Geld wert?

In a manual transmission car, the clutch connects the engine, gearbox, and wheels. You can't drive your car without a functioning 

, which can leave you stuck in one place (and with a big potential bill). 

Knowing bad clutch symptoms is critical so you can catch problems early. A clutch can start to fail in many ways, including issues with bearings, hydraulics and more. 

Read on to learn all about clutch faults and slave cylinder problems, as well as how to recognise the symptoms of a failing clutch before it's too late, and you have to bear the 

A clutch is any device that transfers power from a source to a transmission or drivetrain.

 In a car, it connects the engine to the 

It’s composed of several different parts and often differs between cars. The one constant is three components: the ‘pressure plate’, ‘flywheel’, and ‘friction plate’. A system also needs to be present to actuate it. 

For more information about how clutches in manual and automatic cars work, check out our article 

If you suspect there’s something wrong with your clutch, you need to get it to the garage quickly. However, worn clutch symptoms aren’t always obvious. 

Here are some signs of a bad clutch that all drivers need to know: 

A failing clutch can feel spongy when you press it. So, if your clutch suddenly feels wrong, you might have a problem. 

Shifting through the gears should be effortless and smooth. Sudden juddering, grinding, or general difficulty switching gears is a red flag. 

Knowing where the biting point is becomes intuitive after driving for a long time. This should remain at the same place where the clutch plates meet. If it’s suddenly higher, something has changed. 

Burning smells are never a good sign. If you can trace the burning smell to your clutch or notice a stronger smell when changing gears, it points to a clutch problem. 

Most signs that you have a bad clutch are through movement and smells. But it’s worth visually inspecting your clutch. Fine black dust and general wear and tear are indicators that your clutch is too worn. 

 provided the car has been well cared for and its drivers have been sensible. The way you drive can have an impact on how long a clutch lasts. 

You can make your clutch last longer by not ‘riding’ it, avoiding holding the biting point for too long, and leaving it in neutral while parked. Your handbrake is your best friend! 

If you build these habits into your driving routine, you’ll prolong the life of your clutch and avoid hefty repair bills. 

We’ve recapped the signs of a bad clutch, but what are the faults causing these symptoms? 

Due to the system's complexity, there are a few ways in which the clutch can fail. Below are some typical reasons a clutch fails:

Integral to any clutch is a friction surface, similar to a 

, but working oppositely. The clutch plate is forced against the engine's flywheel to transfer power to the drivetrain. 

, if the friction material has been worn away, the clutch plate will not grip the flywheel properly and will slip. 

Depending on your driving style, the signs of a worn clutch may become apparent quite a long time before the clutch needs replacing. If you notice the clutch slipping in normal use, i.e., when accelerating on flat ground with little load, the clutch needs to be replaced. 

A high clutch pedal can indicate the clutch plate is wearing out, but in some cars, it can mean the clutch just needs adjusting. It’s best to take the car to a trusted garage and get them to check. 

If you leave a slipping clutch too long, the clutch plate bolts can start contacting the flywheel. This will require a new flywheel, which can easily double the clutch repair cost. 

Expensive car repairs can be worrying. With 

, you can split the costs of your car repair into interest-free monthly instalments. 

Because the clutch plate is spinning but still needs to be pressed against the flywheel, a bearing is used on the end of a lever. The lever is often called the clutch fork, and the bearing is a ‘Throwout bearing’. 

Bearings wear out through normal usage. Instead of a silent, smooth operation, the surfaces become worn and make noise when spinning. The throwout bearing is no different, but it only makes noise when the clutch pedal is pressed. 

Symptoms of a bad clutch throwout bearing 

Replacement clutch bearings can cost £300-£600. It is usually better to change the clutch plate, too, and vice versa. 

This is because most of the work is involved in removing the gearbox. Once that’s off, changing the clutch plate will only add £50 or so, and it will remove the need to

 pay to remove the gearbox again in the future. 

It takes considerable force to operate the clutch fork and disengage the clutch plate from the flywheel. A hydraulic system is used to enable a person to do this easily. 

The clutch pedal is attached to the master cylinder, this creates pressure in the oil lines, operating the slave cylinder, in a similar way to a

For this hydraulic system to work effectively, there are many seals in both the slave and master cylinders that need to withstand the high-pressure oil. If one of these fails, the clutch will not operate. 

Symptoms of a bad slave cylinder can come on suddenly and give very little notice. This means it’s imperative to get any issues looked at straight away, as they could render the car immobile quite easily. 

Typical repair costs for clutch hydraulics depend heavily on which cylinder is at fault. Because the slave cylinder is inside the clutch housing, the gearbox must

It’s recommended that you change the clutch plate and the slave cylinder, which could cost between 

Why is my clutch rattling and juddering? 

A few components inside the clutch system could cause a rattling sound. These include the main clutch bearing, loose clutch fork, or a faulty DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel). DMF issues are more commonly found in diesel-engined vehicles, which can cause a knocking sound and a vibrating feel through the clutch pedal. 

Many of these issues are challenging to diagnose without removing and inspecting the gearbox. Book in with your local garage for a personalised assessment. 

The cost of a clutch replacement can cost anywhere from £400 to £1,2000, depending on your car model and the specific clutch issue. 

Other factors that affect the price of a clutch replacement include the mechanic labour time, oils, liquids, small car parts, and clutch kits. 

Prices also change depending on your location, whether you have a front or rear-wheel drive, and your car’s age. 

Read an in-depth guide to clutch replacement costs now.

When to call an expert for bad clutch symptoms

Advice

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