Joseph Law

Bumper Content Writer

Joseph Law | Author

For most of us, checking our tyre pressure is the last thing on our minds. They'll check it at my next MOT anyway, so what's the point? 

Well, poorly maintained tyres can lead to significant, unexpected garage bills. Bills that could have been avoided. Poorly maintained tyres can sometimes lead to breakdowns and even severe collisions. 

In this guide, you'll learn how often to check tyre pressure, why it's so important, and how to check the tyre pressure measurements. Let's dive straight in. 

How often should you check tyre pressure?

That’s right, you should be checking your tyre pressure monthly. Always check when the tyres are cold and before you’ve made any journeys. Hot, or even warm, tyres may give false readings. 

At a petrol station, with a dealer, or with a portable compressor. 

Most drivers choose to check at a petrol station as this is easier and has an inflation zone. However, a portable compressor is good for those who want to check their tyre pressure from home. 

How to check your tyre pressure on a tyre: Quick steps

When checking your tyre pressure, use a gauge in the same unit of measurement shown in your car’s handbook. Three common measurements are used for tyre pressure: PSI, BAR and kPa. 

Follow these steps and you won’t Google “how to know tyre pressure” ever again! 

When should you check your tyre pressure?

When the tyres haven’t been driven or have been driven rarely.

When you drive, the tyres heat up, and their pressure rises. So, if you check your tyres after log drives, they’ll likely feel over-inflated, and you might (accidentally) adjust them wrong. 

The rule of thumb is to only check tyre pressure measurements after a 2 km (or shorter) drive. This gives an accurate reading, and you won’t over or underinflate the tyres. 

Yes! Regularly check the spare tyre’s pressure. 

No one wants to use the spare wheel, but you will have to rely on it in an emergency. Regularly checking it’s pressure will ensure you’re safe if you encounter a flat tyre. 

Most cars have a recommended PSI between 31 and 35.

 the pressure you’ll need depends on the vehicle and the tyre. Often, a sticker is on the inside of your door or under the petrol cap to show this. If not, consult your owner’s handbook or use 

If you’re planning to carry additional weight, such as a heavy rooftop box, the pressure requirement may differ, so consult your handbook. 

Why is it important to know your tyre pressure?

Tyres naturally lose pressure over time. Deflated tyres can affect your vehicle’s handling, the comfort of your drive, and your ability to brake. They can also cost you much more fuel, as increased friction means the engine must work much harder. 

You can inflate your tyres using a tyre inflation kit or a tyre inflation pump at a petrol station.

Follow these steps to inflate your tyres using a petrol station pump: 

Note that the tyre pressures at the front and rear will likely be different. Check all four tyres individually. 

Underinflated tyres aren’t good for your car. They increase fuel consumption, wear out faster and irregularly, increase CO2 emissions, and are more hazardous. An underinflated tyre is more likely to burst at a high speed. 

Overinflated tyres can also be a problem. This is because they’re hazardous on wet roads and have a reduced lifetime as the central part of the tread wears faster. 

Because of temperature changes, small punctures or cuts, or due to a damaged rim.

Some tyres deflate faster than others for no apparent reason. You may also not notice a damaged, rusty rim or small tyre punctures. This is why it’s critical to check your tyres regularly. 

Slow punctures are less noticeable than typical punctures. This means they go unnoticed for long lengths of time. But they will still cause your tyre to lose pressure and become unsafe. 

You can identify a slow puncture by looking for: 

When in doubt, contact an expert for professional advice. 

The UK legal minimum tyre tread limit is 1.6mm.

This depth must be even across the tyre's width, the central three-quarters, and all around. If your tyres are under or overinflated, they might break this law due to irregular or excessive wear. Another reason to check your tyre pressure frequently! 

Some petrol stations and tyre shops provide free tyre-checking services. Check beforehand, though. Most petrol stations use a coin-operated pressure pump, so you’ll need some spare change. 

Taking care of your tyres includes more than knowing their pressure. You should also: 

You should also stay up to date with MOTs, as tyres are checked thoroughly within this test. Being proactive is the best way to stay safe! 

Knowing how to check your tyre pressure is a vital skill. Luckily, it’s pretty easy and only has to be done every month. Bookmark this article so you always have an on-the-go guide for your tyres! 

Bumper puts you back in the driving seat by allowing you to take control of your finances. 

Spread the cost of repairs, servicing, MOTs, and parts with interest-free car repair finance. Apply online and choose from thousands of trusted garages and dealerships. Explore 

To apply, enter your vehicle registration and postcode on 

 has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

Joseph has written about engineering and cars for Autozilla, Komaspec, and several engineering manufacturers. When he's not writing or tinkering with one of his five cars, Joseph dreams of owning an Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale.

How often should I check my tyre pressure? 

Keeping your vehicle clean is an important but often overlooked service item, that can help identify and prevent some fairly serious issues. 

It also shows you take care of your car, especially to prospective buyers. Here we answer and advise on the top 10 car cleaning queries. 

Before starting the task of cleaning a car, it’s best to gather all the required tools, so you’re not searching for a cloth or bucket whilst the car is covered in soapy water. Here’s a brief list of what we’d recommend: 

2. What soap should I use to clean my car? 

Many people often think that any soap will do the job, and whilst technically true, many soaps such as dish soap strip away more than just the dirt. 

Car paintwork is often treated with a wax coat to protect the paint, as long as you don’t scrub too hard, this wax coat should last for one or two washes. It serves to protect the paint as well as make dirt easier to remove. 

The harsh action of dish soap will easily remove this layer. Instead, use a high-quality ‘car shampoo’ that not only retains the wax coat but in some cases restores it. 

3. What sponge should I use to clean bodywork? 

In short, none! Traditional sponges are not kind to car paintwork. They trap dirt and contaminants in their pores, and then, when you clean the rest of the car, scrape these particles into the paint. 

It’s best to use a microfibre mitt, this has a much higher surface area and is softer to the paint. Combined with the two-bucket method below it protects and cleans the paint in a much kinder way. 

4. What should I use to clean my alloys? 

A traditional wash mitt is often too cumbersome and soft to clean wheels with. Many retailers sell a wheel cleaning tool, usually a firmer sponge on a handle, that will allow you to clean around the wheel spokes effectively. 

Specific wheel cleaning solutions are also available, often that you spray on and leave for 10 minutes or so to work. These loosen the stubborn dirt that is usually on alloy wheels, specifically targeting brake dust. 

Surprisingly no, with the right tools and cleaning products, a pressure washer is virtually redundant for all but the muddiest of cars. A bucket or hose for wetting and rinsing is usually sufficient. The exception is if the car has a lot of mud trapped under panels, wheels or in places that might get trapped in the engine. 

What's more, with the power of modern pressure washers it's quite easy to do more damage than good to paint, door seals and other components with high-pressure water. It’s much safer to stick to good old-fashioned elbow grease. 

6. Do I just need a bucket and a hose to clean my car? 

Sort of, we recommend a common technique called the two-bucket method. A hose is handy to wet the paintwork and release some loose dirt before using the wash mitt. 

The two-bucket method is the best way to refrain from introducing contaminants to your paintwork. One bucket contains hot water with your car shampoo of choice to the correct ratio. The other should contain purely hot water, with no shampoo, this is your rinse bucket. 

7. In what order is it best to wash my car? 

Always start from the top down, this is because most of the dirt accumulates on the bottom half of the car, the area nearest the road. When cleaning the bottom sections, it’s best to rinse the cleaning mitt more often. 

The wheels can be done before or after the rest, but bare in mind that dirty water from the bodywork could end up on the wheels, and vice versa. 

Clean glass and mirrors separately, with a specific glass cleaning solution and a microfibre towel, to avoid streaks, use a soap solution before the special glass cleaning product. 

Using your microfibre towels, gently absorb moisture before the heat gets a chance to evaporate it. Avoid dragging the towel across the bodywork as dirt can unintentionally get caught in the towel and scratch the paint. 

Never rely on the sun to dry your car, it is always best to clean a car in the shade on a sunny day. The action of the sun evaporating the water can leave streaks and watermarks. 

Disc brakes are great, they’re much more effective than drums and their exposed nature means cooling is much more efficient, but it also means your wheels get covered in stubborn brake dust. 

Wheel cleaning products are often available in spray bottles. Following the instructions usually advises to spray on a dry wheel, and wait for 10 minutes or so, before scrubbing. 

As mentioned a specific wheel cleaning brush will help here, they are stiffer and more coarse than a mitt designed for bodywork as wheels tend to be more resilient to abrasion. 

Be careful not to get too much soap or water on brake components and always test your brakes when starting a journey. 

10. How do I protect the paint after washing?

Once the car is cleaned of all the road dirt, grime and contaminants, and the paint has been dried, an optional step is to protect the paint from future damage. 

There are a wide range of waxes and protective products available, from high-tech ceramic coatings to traditional waxes and simple spray and rinse products. The best one to suit you depends on how much time you want to spend. 

The last tip, that protects the pain more than anything else, is to keep on top of cleaning. Dirt and contaminants such as tree sap, bird droppings and others can eat away at your paint if left for too long. 

If your car needs more attention than a good wash, spread the cost of your next repair or servicing bill with Bumper. 

Enter your vehicle registration and postcode

has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

10 top tips on how to clean your car 

Keeping your car’s fluids topped up is an important job. But it’s easy to forget. Your car uses six different fluids to run efficiently. Without them, your car won’t run effectively, and in some cases, low fluids can cause dangerous accidents.

Checking your fluid levels also tells you about their levels and condition. Both are essential for preventing costly repairs and issues in the future. However, don't spend hours Googling “How to check clutch fluid or brake fluid levels.” Use our guide to get the lowdown in seconds.

Scroll down to find out what each fluid does and how to check it. Time to give your car some TLC. Let’s go. 

Don’t rush into checking your fluid levels. Make sure your car is parked on a hard, level surface. Turn the engine off and allow it to cool before starting. 

You should also consult your owner’s manual for specific illustrations and instructions for your car. The manual usually includes:

Our guide applies to most vehicles. But it’s always good to double-check your car guidelines.

When pressure is applied to the brake pedal, the piston in the master cylinder causes the fluid to move through the pipes and act upon the cylinders in the brake callipers or drums, pushing the brake pads onto the discs and slowing the car. 

The system is sealed to use the incompressible property of brake fluid. Braking power reduces if any air gets into the lines. This can happen when the brake fluid runs low in the reservoir. 

Other causes of brake failure include old and degraded fluid and contamination, so it’s essential to check the level and 

Locate the brake fluid reservoir. It's usually indicated by a yellow circle or octagon and will have 'Brakes' on the cap.

The fluid should be light brown and not overly dark or light. There should be no contaminants in the reservoir, such as leaves or dirt.

Wipe the cap clean before opening it to ensure nothing falls in.

Check the level on the side of the bottle, and fill it with the appropriate fluid to the line specified in the manual. 

Only use the recommended fluid type as stated in your owner's manual. 

 is operated by a cable. Check your owner’s manual to see if this is the case with yours. If so, you do not need to check your clutch fluid level. 

If your clutch is hydraulically operated, your car will either have a dedicated clutch fluid reservoir, or it may share this with the brake fluid reservoir.

Look for a similar symbol to the brake reservoir, a circle within an octagon. The cap will say clutch or something similar. 

The level and colour considerations are the same as the brake fluid. It should be a golden colour without blemishes or dark spots. 

Look at the clutch fluid level. If closer to the "Minimum" line, it's time to refill.

Another vital fluid to the engine's operation, the coolant travels through the engine and radiator, removing heat. Without adequate coolant flow, the 

Depending on the age of your car, the coolant can be in varying colours. With many different brands using differing colours, it's best to check the owner's manual to see 

The coolant should be a fairly bright colour. It needs to be refreshed if it’s brown or clear.

 Never open the coolant reservoir when the engine is hot. The sudden release of pressure can cause severe burns. 

An engine needs adequate lubrication to run, as oil coats all the surfaces in the engine and drastically reduces friction and thus reduces heat. If the engine oil is allowed to run out, terminal engine damage will occur.

Read more about when to change your engine oil in 

Unlike the other fluids, the engine oil is not stored in a reservoir at the top of the engine bay. After the oil has cycled through the engine, providing lubrication, it drains back into the sump.

Engine oil should be checked regularly and inspected for colour and smell. Excessively dark oil can be a 

. The oil should not smell of fuel in any way. This smell can indicate worn piston rings.

The engine must be off for at least 20 minutes before any checks. Ensure the car is on a level surface.

 Don't overfill the engine oil, as it may cause the excess to be forced out when the engine is running. 

Power steering is a luxury taken for granted in modern cars. If your car develops an issue with the PAS (power-assisted steering) system, you'll know about it!

The power steering will either be hydraulic or electrically operated. Check the recommended fluids section of your manual to work out which one your car is.

If hydraulic, the PAS uses a high-pressure pump and a hydraulic motor to actuate the 

 This makes the steering much easier for the driver.

Locate the bottle. Often they say “Hydraulic Fluid”, “Power Steering”, or similar.

Remove the cap, being careful not to allow debris to fall in, and check the colour is bright and not darkening. There are two different types of power steering fluid, usually dependent on vehicle age. Your manual will advise which one to use.

Either use the level on the side of the bottle as before or check using the built-in dipstick, depending on the car. Refill until it’s in between min and max. 

The screenwash is a special detergent solution that keeps your car windows clean. The bottle will be inside the car’s bumper or front bodywork.

There will likely be a filler cap somewhere around the outsides of the engine compartment, with a long translucent tube disappearing into the car's structure.

Because the level is usually below this filler tube, the easiest way to check the level is to top it up. Use a high-quality screen wash, as cheaper ones can cause streaks and not properly clean the screen.

No, you can’t use water in place of screenwash. Screenwash (AKA window washer fluid) is a special fluid designed to remove grime and debris from your windshield. Water alone doesn’t remove oil or grease and may leave you with dirty windows.

Now you’ve got the lowdown on how to check your car’s fluid levels, it’s time to get started!

if you are unsure of any reservoir locations or fluid types required, consult your manual or a qualified person. 

Only attempt to fill the brake fluid if you are competent. Incorrect fluid usage could cause an accident or serious injury. 

It is critical to note a drastic reduction in brake fluid levels should not be ignored and could indicate a leaking pipe or component. If this is the case, inspect the car immediately to 

Be ready for any scenario. Here’s a quick checklist of equipment you’ll need:

How to check the fluid levels in your car: The takeaway

All of these fluids are vital and should be both refilled and replaced regularly. Often forget to top up? Take note of your last fluid check to help yourself in the future. Or bookmark this blog so you don’t lose the content. 

Keep your car running smoothly with interest-free monthly payments on servicing and repairs with Bumper. 

Apply online before your booking and choose from 1000s of garages and dealerships across the country.

How to check the fluid levels in your car

Owning and running a car is expensive, with lease payments, insurance, 

and more it seems the costs are never ending. Costly servicing may seem a step too far, but in this article, we’ll explain why it doesn’t make sense to skip servicing intervals. 

We’ve listed and explained 5 reasons to maintain regular servicing, at least to your vehicle manufacturer's specification: 

Skipping servicing is a false economy, the parts replaced at services are either parts that are consumed over time or parts that reduce wear to your engine/vehicle. 

An example of the first case is brake pads, ignoring the obvious safety concerns, when these wear away the metal part of the pad will start to contact the disc. This almost always results in needing new discs, as well as pads. 

In some cases where the metal-on-metal contact has caused severe 

, the caliper may well be damaged also. It just makes sense to replace the cheapest part (the pads) as soon as it’s required, or preferably before. 

Oil changes are one of the most commonly missed out service items, because 99% of the time, the engine will show no signs of ill effects for thousands of miles. However, the engine oil does deteriorate and considering it's the oil’s job to prevent undue wear on the major engine components, it pays to replace it often. 

Failed main bearings due to poor oil, or blocked oil pumps due to contaminants in the oil will both result in complete failure of the engine. Only a full rebuild or new engine will fix these issues, at a cost of at least £3,000 on most vehicles. 

The previous example is a perfect one again, which shows how important service items are. Worn brake pads don’t stop the car as effectively as newer ones, when the pads wear down to the metal, the braking force will be less than half what it should be. 

What’s more, if you’re involved in an accident with parts of your car in this condition, there will be serious consequences, including penalty points and 

 the mechanic will look over all the major components, as well as take it for a test drive. Any faults that are starting to develop but have either not yet become apparent from the driver's seat, or to an untrained eye, will be detected. 

Repairing faults before they cause the car to be unusable affords cost savings in both arrangements for alternative transport, and the outright cost of fixing the car. With the ability to shop around for better prices on parts and labour allowing further cost savings. 

Most cars are a depreciating asset, that is their value decreases with time. There’s really no way to avoid this, short of only driving classic or special vehicles that become desirable by collectors. 

There are a few ways to reduce the impact of depreciation, these all boil down to increasing or maintaining the desirability of the car. Things such as keeping the mileage low, and not damaging the paintwork are often difficult to guarantee. 

Keeping up with servicing however is guaranteed to increase the resale value of your car. Particularly if you take the car to a dealer or 

 this will show the new owner you’ve cared for the car, and that it’s less likely to cause them problems, hence increasing the value. 

We’ve already touched on the scenario of having a collision due to worn-out brakes, but legality is much deeper than this. 

Tyres must have over 1.5mm of tread depth to be legal on the road. A full service will check tread depth and give you a report, allowing you to plan when the tyres will need changing, allowing you to avoid getting 3 points and a £2,500 fine, and that’s per tyre! 

Working windscreen wipers and lights are another area that is required by law, and will be picked up on a service. 

Petrol engines need air, fuel and a spark to run, all three systems have serviceable components that directly affect how efficient the combustion is. 

Incoming air is filtered to stop debris from entering the engine, after a certain amount of miles, the filter will become clogged and start to restrict the flow of air, causing poor running and increased consumption. 

Spark plugs provide an ignition source for the air and fuel mixture, but they have internal components that break down with the

 and heat. A strong spark provides better combustion, resulting in less unburnt fuel exiting the exhaust, and less fuel required to produce the same amount of power. 

And finally, the fuel is filtered in the same way the incoming air is, a clogged and dirty fuel filter will introduce contaminants causing poor running. If the filter is left unchanged for too long, the engine will fail to run at all. 

These points all reduce emissions and save fuel and therefore money. 

How regular servicing can help your wallet

Split the cost of servicing and repairs into interest-free monthly payments, 

 to find a car repair finance Bumper partner near you. 

Is servicing required? And is it worth paying for? 

Since late 2021, all petrol stations in the UK supply E10 fuel as the standard grade available. This fuel contains 10% ethanol, an increase of 5% from the previous fuel; E5, which is still the standard for premium fuels. 

, a change in the fuel they use, can be very impactful. The primary reason for the switch is the government's aim to reduce carbon emissions, we’ll explain how below. 

E10 and E5 are classed as ‘Biofuels’, as 10% and 5% respectively of the volume is produced from crops. Ethanol is traditionally produced from the fermentation of sugarcane or corn, and has a similar, but not identical, energy content to petrol. 

It is estimated that the switch to E10 will reduce overall emissions equivalent to that of removing 350,000 cars from UK roads, equal to 750,000 tonnes of CO2. 

This is possible in part due to the CO2 absorbing qualities of the plants before harvesting, which offsets the CO2 released when they are burnt. 

, Ethanol has a higher solvent content than petrol, and as modern cars have been designed and manufactured using different materials, they typically fare better. 

One of the areas that E10 can have a negative impact is in your fuel systems’ seals and gaskets. These are often made of rubber on older vehicles, a material than Ethanol will degrade much faster than petrol. 

 for checking if your vehicle is compatible, it uses your car's make to display information from the manufacturer on which cars are safe for use on E10. 

Whilst this tool is handy for most vehicles, it is always best to consult your owner's manual for more information. Almost all motorcycles are incompatible, due to the construction of their 

A very simple rule to follow is if your car is pre 2003, err on the side of caution and read to the bottom of this article where we discuss alternatives. There are however a few car manufacturers that are not compatible even after 2003 so it’s always best to check manually. 

What if I’ve filled up with E10 in an incompatible car? 

It’s easily done, especially with the new fuel only being in use for a short period, the good news is that it’s not terminal. 

It’s best to not leave the E10 sitting in the tank and fuel system for too long though, if you drive the vehicle regularly, top up with E5 fuel at around half a tank, to dilute the E10, and continue as normal. 

If you’re intending to leave the car for a long period, or you do not drive much, it may be safer to drain the tank of E10. In this case it’s best to consult a specialist garage or dealer for advice.

As discussed, E10 fuel can cause issues with seals in older vehicles, but there are downsides to the new mixture, even for modern vehicles. 

Petrol has a higher energy density than ethanol, that means that E10 fuel has a lower energy density than E5. In older cars, this can mean reduced fuel efficiency, as there will be more fuel needed to travel the same distance. 

In modern cars however, the ECU and sensors can detect the changes in fuel properties, and adjust the engine timing and 

 concluded in 2011 that using E10 results in the same miles per gallon as E5. 

Ethanol is also hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs water. If left exposed to the outside atmosphere for too long, the fuel will absorb moisture from the air. This can cause serious issues with steel fuel tanks, lines and engine components. 

If your car is incompatible with E10, it’s best not to risk using it. The issue is that there are only two options available: 

Premium fuels such as Shell V-Power still only contain 5% Ethanol, as they are developed to be a higher octane fuel. This means they can be safely used in older or incompatible vehicles without risk of damage. 

The issue comes in that premium fuel is typically 10-20p more per litre to buy. This means a typical tank of 70 litres will cost £10 more than normal fuel. Over a year of 8,000 miles this could cost anywhere from £150 to £250 more in fuel. 

As the main problems with using E10 are the fuel system components, it might be possible to swap these for more modern materials that are compatible. 

There are companies that specialise in this service and charge around £400 to convert fuel lines, filters and gaskets. 

There is however the issue of water retention, many modern cars use plastic fuel tanks that are not susceptible to rust, and are chemically engineered to resist degradation for the solvents in ethanol. 

Unfortunately to replace a petrol tank would cost significantly more than the fuel lines, which would probably not be cost-effective for an older vehicle. 

If E10 isn’t suitable for you, but your vehicle is not worth converting to modern fuel lines and tanks, unfortunately, you will have to use premium fuel. 

Luckily there are ways to reduce the cost of running a car, including servicing and maintenance. Bumper allows you to split the cost of a repair bill into monthly payments, at no extra cost. Explore 

Complete your application and see dependable garages and dealerships in your area by 

entering your registration and postcode on our website.

What is E10 fuel and will it damage my engine? 

Most cars come with air conditioning nowadays, it is an extremely convenient luxury to have, even in the UK! After having A/C, being in a car without it on a hot day can almost seem unbearable. So here’s our guide on how to look after your air con system. 

Air conditioning systems use a refrigerant in a sealed system to remove heat from the air inside the cabin. They do this by strategically compressing and decompressing the fluid in conjunction with heat exchangers inside and outside. 

The fans in the climate control system blow filtered air across the internal heat exchanger, known as the condenser, to pump cold air into the car. A cabin air filter is used to prevent pollen and other contaminants being blown into the vehicle. 

Things to check when using your air conditioning

These are especially important if you have not used the system for a long time: 

Naturally the AC should be blowing cold air when active, this should be around 5 degrees celsius. Both sides of the car should receive the same temperature air, if not this could indicate a fault with the ducting system. 

The inside of the air vents can become the ideal location for mould to grow if not used through the winter months. When using your air conditioning, if any musty or foul smells are present, turn it off and ventilate the car's interior. 

Advice

How often should I check my tyre pressure?

10 top tips on how to clean your car

How to check the fluid levels in your car

Is servicing required? And is it worth paying for?

What is E10 fuel and will it damage my engine?

A guide to air conditioning

How often should I change my oil?

Which tyre is right for my car?