, tyres can be one of the largest costs after fuel. It’s tempting then to look into so-called “part-worn” tyres to save money. Is this a genuine money-saving trick, or do you get what you pay for? 

are second-hand tyres that have already been used on the road. They are often sold by smaller independent tyre fitters and are generally cheaper than new tyres. 

Some part-worn tyres come from breakers yards, where crash-damaged or scrapped cars are dismantled for parts. This only accounts for a small amount of the part worns sold in the UK, most come from continental Europe, specifically Germany. 

Also, part-worn tyres are shipped in from Germany en masse as tyres that are considered completely worn in Germany are still legal here. The legal limit for tread depth in Germany is 3mm, whereas in the UK it is 1.6mm.

The UK government has set rules for the sale of part-worn tyres, namely 

The Motor Vehicle Tyres (Safety) Regulations 1994

 if these rules are adhered to, then there is no reason why part-worn tyres could not be considered safe. 

Tyres are generally rated to last 6-8 years,

 so as long as they are under this age, and don’t show signs of damage, as per the government rules, they should be as reliable and safe as new tyres. However, it’s a common complaint that part-worn tyre sellers do not follow these rules. 

Statistical evidence shows that part-worn tyre shops often flout the rules on selling “part worns”. This 

 post, reports the findings of the DVSA and Trading Standards tests on part-worn tyre garages. 

The report does not look good on the standards of part-worn tyre shops, over 10% of the tyres checked were over 10 years old, and some had noticeable physical defects such as cuts, bulges or foreign objects in the tread. 

This is especially alarming as most tyre manufacturers recommend not using tyres past 8 years old, and the average part-worn tyre buyer is not likely to be able to inspect their tyres as well as the DVSA, with their expertise and dedicated facilities. 

Something noted in the DVSA/Trading Standards tests is the lack of indelible markings present on the tyres, all part-worn tyres must have “PART-WORN” marked on the outer face. 85% of the tyres tested did not have these markings. 

The legislation sets out the minimum condition tyres are to adhere to, but from our experience, there are a few other considerations to make before having back-street tyre shops fit part-worns to your car. 

Fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque level, set by the manufacturer, to ensure bolts don’t come loose, and that the material isn’t being damaged through over-tightening. 

Wheel bolts are no different, but many garages charging only £20-30 per tyre, don’t spend the time to tighten bolts properly. What’s worse is that many use high-powered impact guns instead, over-tightening the nuts and putting stress on the fastener. 

As well as torquing the wheel nuts properly, a wheel and tyre should be 

 whenever changed or repaired. This prevents vibration at high speeds, which can cause various knock-on effects. 

In our experience, some cheaper part-worn tyre shops do not bother to balance after fitting different tyres, which is something to look out for. 

Unless you can specify which exact tyre you want, from their stock, most part worn tyre places fit whatever tyre fits your car, and is on top of the stack, regardless of level of wear or 

It is not recommended to fit mismatched tyres on your car, and the consequences can be even worse if it is a 4-wheel drive vehicle. In heavy braking or cornering mismatched tyres can make the car unpredictable and seriously affect control. 

Wear level too can have a negative effect, when fitting new tyres to a 

 (e.g. changing both front tyres on a front-wheel drive car), they wear at even rates, with the rolling radius decreasing evenly across the axle. 

Part-worn tyres are likely to have differing levels of wear initially, and if the tyre model is different, this problem may worsen as one wears faster than the other. 

This can cause serious problems with your car's differential, as one wheel will be spinning faster than the other, all the time. This will be worse in cars with a Limited Slip differential, such as sports or off-road vehicles. 

The Department for Transport reported that 25% of the accidents on UK roads in 2022 were caused by poor or worn-out tyres. We don’t know how many of these were bought part-worn, but it does prove tyres have a big impact on road safety. 

You could have the reaction times of Lewis Hamilton, and the brakes from his Formula 1 car, but if your tyres are old, worn out or of poor quality, you are more likely to be involved in a road traffic collision. 

Make sure to inspect part-worn tyres thoroughly for damage, age and the performance of the tyre when new, as the stats above prove not all garages selling part-worn tyres can be trusted to do so.

Part-worn tyres are definitely cheaper than any new tyre, many places only charge £20 or so per tyre including fitting. The cheapest new tyres, even budget ones, average around £60. 

However, one important thing to remember is that part-worn tyres usually only have around 3mm of tread left, while new tyres have around 9mm. With the legal limit being 1.6mm, that's only 1.4mm of use left. 

So for £20, you are getting 15-20% of a tyre that may have only cost £60 new. That doesn’t sound like great value to us! 

There are part-worn tyre shops up and down the country, with many selling new tyres too, and some even offering further services such as tracking, exhausts or 

To have the best shot at getting tyres that are safe, find a garage with a good rating online, and that states it conforms to the British standards for used tyre safety. 

If you can get near to the tyres that are for sale - and in many part-worn tyre shops you can - try to inspect and advocate for the best tyres available, using the following criteria: 

Should I Buy Budget Tyres or Part Worn Tyres? 

We’re not oblivious to the cost of living crisis, and driving on safe part-worn tyres is better than prolonging your worn-out current tyres, but we would always encourage drivers to buy new, well-rated tyres where possible. 

The upfront cost is cheaper, most part-worns cost 30-50% of a new tyre. 

As the statistics show, many part worms sold in the UK do not meet the legal requirements, and as such their safety cannot be guaranteed. 

Whilst the initial cost of buying part-worn tyres is lower, you don’t actually get very good value for your money, furthermore they will need replacing much sooner than new tyres. 

Generally, the upfront cost of new tyres is the main factor, as part worms can be less than half the cost. 

Budget tyres can be bought for many smaller cars for less than £60 a corner, some more premium brands can cost up to £150 for the same size. 

Whilst budget tyres are a good option, and we’d probably lean towards that over risky part-worns, some budget tyres offer substandard levels of performance in both efficiency and braking/handling. 

One of the best alternatives to buying part-worn tyres is paying for your tyres in monthly payments. This way you get branded, well-rated tyres but don’t have to pay a large amount upfront. 

Split the cost of tyres into interest-free monthly instalments with 

. Choose from 1,000s of trusted tyre fitters and apply online before you visit. 

 has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

Joseph has written about engineering and cars for Autozilla, Komaspec, and several engineering manufacturers. When he's not writing or tinkering with one of his five cars, Joseph dreams of owning an Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale.

Part Worn Tyres: Are They Safe To Buy & Drive?

Audi vehicles have been a common sight on UK roads since their introduction to Blighty in 1965. They regularly reach the top 10 sales charts, with the most recent being the Audi A3 in 2024. 

But you don’t need to pay new car prices to experience the combination of German engineering and style that Audi provides. The used market is a wash with great deals, from small city cars to 

, but which of those are the most reliable? 

 is known as the 8V, and is the third generation in the series. It was offered not only in the commonly seen hatchback version, but also in a saloon and convertible body style.

Engine offerings include the 1.5 and 2.0 TFSI (

) as well as the 2.0 TDI engine. The latter is our pick, as used in many VW, Audi and 

 vehicles with great reliability scores. We’d recommend looking at 2015-era cars that generally sell for around £5,500. 

We consider this to be the most reliable 

 as it has the perfect combination of a tried and tested engine, without as many of the complexities of the larger more luxurious models, helping with overall reliability. 

The Audi A5 uses the same platform as the A4 saloon and estate (Avant) but is available with a larger 3.0 TDi engine. Whilst not suitable for everyone, this larger powerplant has a great track record for reliability if serviced correctly. 

What's more, the A5 gives that little bit more space than the A3, carrying 4 adults with a relatively large boot too. A 2016 A5 can be bought for around £9,000, a car of this age will be 

If you need even more space or just prefer the luxury of a larger more plus vehicle, the A6 Saloon may be just what you need. Available with the same 3.0 TDI engine the A5 received, it uses an even larger platform offering far more space inside. 

From 2011 to 2018 they were known as the C7 A6 and racked up good reliability figures. One reason might be that because the car costs at least £54,000 when new, owners are more likely to have kept up with the 

A6s offer great value, as despite their high sticker price when new, secondhand ones can be picked up for around £6,500. 

The A4 Avant is the smallest estate car Audi makes. The generation from 2008 to 2016 is known as the BK variant. Coming optioned with all the usual engine choices, from the 2.0 TFSI petrol to the 2.0 or 3.0 

Values have held relatively strong compared to the larger saloon models, partly due to the lesser number of Avants made, but a good condition 2015 car can still be bought for £7,500. 

If you’re looking for a more stylish vehicle, the black edition comes with larger wheels and no chrome trim, making it look a lot more modern, even though many of them are over 10 years old! 

From the front the A6 Avant looks just like the A6 saloon, but it offers that bit more passenger space over the A4, and substantially more boot capacity for carrying luggage, sports equipment or your pets. 

Available with both the 2.0 and 3.0 TDI engines, we think the 3.0 is the best bet, in part because the Avant weighs another 230kg more than the already chunky A6. With the smooth and powerful diesel engine, motorway journeys are refined and swift, with ample overtaking torque. 

Launched in 2008, the Q5 was the smaller brother to Audi's first SUV, the Q7. It was sold with multiple engine options including petrol and diesel variants ranging from 2.0 to 3.2 Litre, with the sporty SQ5 having a 3.0 Litre supercharged unit. 

Offering a higher driving position and extra comfort over the lower A5 saloon, the Q5 is aimed specifically at the luxury end of the SUV market. Prices when new were well over £45,000, but 6-year-old models can be found for £13,000. 

The Q7 was Audi’s first SUV, debuting in 2005 it shared many of its components with the VW 

, itself a burly substantial SUV. Over time the Q7 has developed into a luxury 

, featuring a plush leather interior and huge amounts of tech. 

Thanks to the large engine bay, the engine options range beyond the 3.0 TDI of the Q5, and some models came with a 6.0 Litre V12 Diesel. If you’re at all concerned about MPG or servicing costs, we would not recommend that version! Instead, the 3.0TDI V6 gives a good compromise between reliability and efficiency. 

As the first-generation cars are becoming a little long in the tooth now, we’d suggest getting a facelift model from 2010 to 2015 for a compromise between age, reliability and style. A 2012 car can be purchased for around £7,500. 

An icon of early 2000s car styling, the first Audi TT was a great combination of German reliability and sophistication, with the fun and dynamism of a 2 door sports car. Whilst the first generation “Type 8N” cars make great modern classics, we’d recommend a 2nd generation, made from 2006 to 2014. 

As we’re focussing on reliability, we’ve tended to suggest diesel engines so far in this list, but a diesel engine (although available from 2008) isn’t the best fit for a sports car. As such we’d recommend the fizzy 2.0 petrol turbo, as found in the hot Audi S3 and VW Golf GTI. 

Audi and VW term this engine the TFSI, meaning “Turbo Fuel Stratified Injection”. While these are generally a strong engine, they can be known to have issues with timing chains, so aim for lower mileage cars or ensure the timing chain has been replaced recently. 

Budget around £4-5,000 for a 2010-era car with under 90.000 miles. As they’re bought mainly for leisure, TTs of this age retain their value well. 

Using the same engine as the aforementioned Audi TT, the S3 is a hot hatch version of the A3, boasting impressive 0-60 and power figures for what was a small hatchback. The suspension is tweaked too from the original A3, with the car riding lower, wider and with bigger brakes. 

Engine reliability is very much the same as the Audi TT, with the 2.0 TFSI being relatively strong aside from a few common issues pertaining to timing chains and turbos. A well-maintained example though should see many miles of use. 

A 2010 car, a second generation “8P” S3 will set you back around £5,500. As with the TT, make sure to check the timing chain status and listen carefully for any rattles. 

Have Your Audi Repaired With Zero Interest Finance from Bumper 

German cars tend to be more expensive to repair, as their parts cost more and work can be more complex. If you have an expensive bill on the horizon, 

offers zero-interest finance through thousands of 

9 Of The Most Reliable Used Audi Models In 2024 

, your car's wheels and tyres take more punishment than any other part. It may make sense then to specifically insure for the cost of repairing them, but is tyre and alloy insurance really worth it? 

We take a look at how wheel and tyre insurance works, what it covers, and most importantly, does it make financial sense? 

Like any other insurance policy, tyre insurance providers charge an 

 premium to cover any damage, accidental or malicious, to your tyres. These are usually bought as a one-off payment, lasting for 12 months. 

In the event you damage something by hitting a kerb or pothole, the insurance company will pay to replace the tyre, usually up to a certain value. 

Typical policies will cost between £60 to £150 per year and usually offer 2-4 claims in that period.

There are two main ways to get tyre insurance, one is per-tyre cover, often sold by tyre shops, and the other is a yearly cover, available from multiple online insurance companies. 

 cover called things like TyreCare (offered by UK garage KwikFit) or an Extended Warranty (offered by Halfords). These will often be presented to you at the tyre garage when paying for your tyres. 

Costing from £5.99 to £12.00 per wheel, this cover only usually covers one tyre replacement - the one that you bought - this is why some retailers call them extended warranties. 

Annual policies are offered by many online 

 brokers and are usually sold as a “productised” item, i.e. a one-off cost somewhat regardless of tyre type and size, instead of being calculated on a case-by-case basis such as car and home insurance. 

, location and car type are not specifically considered in the same way traditional car insurance is. Most insurers offer tiers such as up to 17” 17” to 20” etc. 

How Does Alloy Wheel Insurance Work in the UK? 

Much like Tyre insurance, you pay a yearly premium, the cost of which depends on the size and type of your alloy wheels. If your wheels get damaged, the insurance company will cover the 

Alloy wheel insurance costs between £70 and £300 per year. Some companies take payment upfront, and some offer monthly payments. 

What is Covered in Tyre and Alloy Wheel Insurance 

Insurance companies are sure to set out exactly what is and isn’t covered when taking out a policy, but in general, most providers put a clear limit on the cost of each repair or replacement. 

, the vast majority of the providers we checked out, the cheapest tiers of cover offer up to £100 per repair, and a maximum of 4 repairs per year. Higher tiers offer up to £250 per wheel, but most are still capped at 4 repairs per year. 

Tyre insurance works on a similar system, with most covering 2 tyres per year max, with claim limits selectable from £125 to £400 per tyre. Increasing the claim limit from £125 to £400 doubles the yearly premium. 

Things That Aren’t Covered on Tyre and Wheel Insurance 

Whilst damage both accidental and malicious is covered, tyre wear is not. Most insurers we found will not pay to replace anything with less than 2mm of tread. This also applies to tyres that have been damaged. 

So make sure you keep on top of routine tyre replacement, otherwise your tyre insurance won't pay out at all, you’ll need to do this inspection yourself, as 

 testers may only mention your tyres are low when they’re very close to the 

Unlike car insurance, tyre and wheel insurance is not a legal requirement so it is up to drivers to decide if they need cover or not. To figure out if tyre insurance makes sense for you, first consider the following factors: 

The fewer miles you drive, the less likely you are to receive a puncture or damaged alloy and therefore need to claim on your tyre or wheel insurance. 

Because the policies very rarely take into account 

 when calculating a premium, the fewer miles you do, the less cost-effective the insurance will be. 

Performance, luxury or larger cars all tend to have more 

. It therefore may make more financial sense to insure wheels and tyres on these kinds of vehicles but not on those with cheaper tyres. 

Many policies put a strict age limit on the vehicles they will insure the wheels of, common ages being 5 or 7 years. If your car is nearing these milestones, consider if the policy will be invalidated during its duration. 

Can Tyre and Alloy Insurance Save You Money? 

you money in the long run; consider that the average driver pays 

 in premium fees in their driving lifetime, but very few drivers will receive that amount in insurance payouts. 

Instead, tyre and alloy insurance helps with cash flow, allowing drivers to avoid footing those big bills that always seem to crop up when you least want them to. 

Using what we’ve covered in this article, we’d say that if your car’s tyres and wheels are expensive, you drive a 

, and you don’t generally have cash on hand, tyre and alloy insurance is probably worth considering. 

However, if you don't do many miles or your tyres are reasonably cheap, we’d recommend (if possible) putting some money aside for emergencies so you’re not caught short. 

Bumper Can Help, Without Having to Pay Any Extra 

 offers zero interest-free car repairs at our many partner garages across the UK, and that extends to tyres too. Enabling you to spread the cost of new tyres, without needing to buy a costly insurance policy. 

has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

Is Tyre And Alloy Insurance Worth It?

Mercedes-Benz is the oldest car manufacturer in the world, producing the first ever car in 1885. From there they have developed a great reputation for reliability and build quality. Despite this, modern cars are complex, and there are some common faults recorded among Mercedes owners. 

Mercedes Benz is known for their reliability, with high ratings in WhatCar and Which surveys in recent years. They do not often top the charts, with brands such as 

Like most modern luxury brands, Mercedes are not low-maintenance cars, and you don’t want to skip scheduled maintenance items. With their dual-

 transmissions and complex turbocharged engines, they need the recommended oil and filter changes, at the least, to keep them running smoothly. 

There are not likely to be any definitive timescales to expect your Mercedes-Benz to start developing issues, but as with many cars, problems generally begin after around 7-10 years and around 100,000 miles. This is when items such as suspension arms, hydraulic engine mounts, and timing belts can need replacing.

 is that the ride is quiet, refined and free of vibrations for the passengers. To achieve this most modern premium vehicles have hydraulic engine mounts. These are oil-filled rubber dampers that are integral to the engine mounting brackets. 

Over time, the rubber wears and perishes by absorbing the engine's vibrations, causing the oil inside to leak out and further reduce its damping effect. Symptoms of this issue all relate to excessive vibration and noise from the engine. 

Another fantastic feature that enhances comfort for passengers is Mercedes' sophisticated air suspension system. It uses an air suspension strut in replacement of a traditional 

 and shock absorber to allow better ride quality and handling characteristics. 

Like the engine mounts, these air suspension components can become worn over time and start to fail. Perishing seals and rubber 

 are the usual culprits, with symptoms being unusual handling, an uneven ride height and errors from the infotainment system. 

to most automatic Mercedes vehicles in the last 10 years or so is a complex piece of engineering that enables fast gear changes and excellent efficiency. Unfortunately, they also need servicing correctly and on time to avoid damage. 

As the interval is usually 5 years or 70,000 miles, check any car you’re considering buying has had the required services, and is on time. Servicing the gearbox is quite a complex procedure, hence why many owners neglect to do it on time. 

As many Mercedes saloons and estates are rear-wheel drives, they have a separate rubber mounting at the rearmost point of the gearbox, where it connects to the propshaft. After a few years of use, this rubber mount can too begin to perish, allowing the metal portions of the mount to collide. 

This will cause a vibration and possibly more cabin noise, that will come from the floor in between the driver and passenger seat. New mounts are relatively inexpensive and not too difficult to replace. 

A problem exclusively affecting the A-Class from March 2018, the brake hose to the rear 

 is not long enough, causing strain on the connections as the suspension goes through its full range of motion. 

Mercedes issued a recall for the fault, and any Mercedes dealer will be happy to investigate and remedy it.

As Mercedes’ best-selling saloon, the C-Class is a popular sight on the road. It offers a good measure of luxury and performance, especially in the higher AMG trim levels. Here are a few common issues to look out for. 

If you notice poor economy and running with your 1.6 diesel C-Class, double-check it was not featured for a software recall. Mercedes updated the software on the car's 

, improving the driveability and emissions performance of the car. 

Affecting cars from 2014 through to 2018, you can check to see if your car, or one you are looking at buying, is affected 

Some high-performance versions of the C-Class were fitted with axle and differential mountings that were not quite up to the task of handling the C63 V8’s power, with differential mounting brackets cracking after hard acceleration. 

Software updates were rolled out to reduce the impact on the part, helping prolong its life. 

Mercedes offers a range of cars that solve multiple needs, from high performance and handling agility to comfort and refinement. If these are qualities you are looking for in your next vehicle and intend to maintain your vehicle well, a Mercedes would be a great fit. 

 can help if your car needs expensive repairs, by offering zero-interest finance plans. We have hundreds of partners 

5 Common Mercedes Problems & How To Prevent Them

5 Problemas Comunes en Mercedes y Cómo Prevenirlos

5 häufige Mercedes-Benz-Probleme und wie man sie behebt 

 is vital to the safe operation of your engine, the radiator plays a vital part of that. BMWs are no different, with many having larger or high-performance engines, it's even more important to fix your BMW radiator and get it replaced as soon as it breaks. 

As one of the most popular BMW models, the 3 series has been in production since 1975, with each new version being more sophisticated and better to drive than the last. 

If you take your car to the garage for it to be replaced, you can expect to pay anywhere from £200-1300 for your BMW 3 Series Radiator to be replaced, depending on your exact model and age. 

The smallest BMW in the range, the 1 series, is a practical but compact hatchback. It has been in production since 2004, when the original design was acquired by BMW from the Rover acquisition. 

For a BMW 1 Series radiator replacement, you should expect to pay between £350-1100 in the UK depending on your model. 

BMW offers a few different SUV models, they started with the X5 in 1999, and have since released the X1, X2, and X3. These offer SUV styling in a smaller overall vehicle size, making them more popular in cities and urban areas. 

How do I know if my BMW radiator is bad? 

There are two main warning signs that your 

, or water being lost from the expansion tank. 

An overheating engine can be symptomatic and the cause of serious engine issues, so it’s very important to drive as little as possible if your engine is above the normal temperature level. 

Leaks can sometimes be seen, either when driving or by noticing coolant on the floor when parked. Both of these can be caused by a leaking radiator or coolant system, and can be checked by monitoring the coolant level in the expansion tank. 

Like many vehicles there are some faults that are a common occurrence among BMW owners, alongside the infamous BMW 

 are a few coolant and radiator-related problems, read on to see if your car is affected. 

Used to contain the surplus coolant, and allow a moderate pressure to build in the system, the expansion tank is located under the bonnet, generally somewhere near the radiator. 

On some BMWs, mainly from the model years 2000 to 2008, the plastic expansion tank is known to develop leaks and even split open completely. Causing at first a slow loss of 

, followed by the system draining completely. 

If you notice your coolant tank leaking coolant, there are often uprated replacements you can replace it with, that retain the standard fitment and hose connections. 

Certain high-performance BMW models from 2009 through to 2016 were fitted with the N55 engine, this is a 6-cylinder 3-litre engine fitted to many cars including the 1 Series, 3 Series, X5, and X6. 

Certain versions of these engine and model combinations came fitted from the factory with a hard plastic link pipe on top of the radiator. The material used is susceptible to becoming brittle and cracking with the vibrations of the engine. 

This can cause a significant coolant leak. Thankfully it’s a simple fix that can be done by a home mechanic. 

A common theme from the Bavarian manufacturer is using inferior quality plastic where previously durable rubber or metal was better suited. Whilst not fitted to all their cars, models from the early to mid-2000’s such as E46 3 Series and 5 Series, had a plastic water pump. 

with these cars, the effectiveness of the water pump is the first thing the mechanic should check. 

Composite (plastic with fibre reinforcement) impellers were introduced shortly after BMW became aware of the problem. 

As the radiator is a relatively cheap part, it would usually be worth fixing a BMW radiator, assuming the rest of the car is in reasonably good condition, with no major issues such as rust or mechanical faults. 

Radiators are generally expected to last the economic life of the car, up to around 15-20 years. There is an outside chance it may receive damage by road debris or whilst other work is being carried out. 

That said, on cars 15 years or older, corrosion and wear may begin to catch up, this may be the case when a performance or special edition car has been kept on the road as a classic vehicle. 

What to do if your BMW radiator is leaking 

Because the coolant system is so important to any engine, we suggest not driving the car anymore than is necessary until it can be inspected. Whilst small leaks could be dealt with, they may be an indication of an impending catastrophic failure, which could leave you stranded. 

 with Bumper. We work with 1000’s of garages and service centres across the UK, to offer 

interest-free car repair payment with monthly installments

How Much Does A BMW Radiator Replacement Cost?

Wie viel kostet eine Autokühler-Reparatur? 

Door actuators are one of the many things used on modern cars to make them easier and more convenient to live with. In this article we’ll take a look at average costs to replace door actuators on BMWs and what causes them to fail. 

How much does it cost to repair a BMW Door Actuator? 

Thankfully, door actuators can be relatively inexpensive to replace. The parts are readily available and the labour times are not likely to exceed 1-2 hours in total. 

The biggest factor in how much a door actuator costs to replace is if you go with genuine BMW parts, or are happy to use aftermarket ones. 

One other factor is location, garages in and around London, expect to pay around 10-15% more for labour. 

It is likely if your car door won’t unlock using the remote key, or the lock button inside, that the door actuator has broken or seized. Check that the other doors still unlock and lock as they should. 

If more than one door stops working at the same time, it is unlikely both actuators have broken at the same time, after checking the fuses, consult an auto electrician to inspect the BCM or 

. There will be one in each door, including the boot lid. They contain either a small electric motor and mechanism or an electro-magnetic solenoid. 

If you have ever had a car without central locking - where you need to manually unlock and lock every door - you’ll surely appreciate the advantage of having door actuators! 

How Long Does it Take to Replace a Door Actuator? 

Because the door actuator is inside the door itself, usually the only component that needs to be removed is the door card, the upholstered covering you see on the inside of the door. 

After removing the door card, the actuator is often held in with 3 or 4 bolts and connects to the door lock mechanism with a metal or plastic clip. 

Can I replace a BMW Door Actuator Myself? 

Joseph Law

Bumper Content Writer

Part Worn Tyres: Are They Safe To Buy & Drive?

9 Of The Most Reliable Used Audi Models In 2024

Is Tyre And Alloy Insurance Worth It?

5 Common Mercedes Problems & How To Prevent Them

How Much Does A BMW Radiator Replacement Cost?

BMW Door Actuator Replacement Cost

Why Is Smoke Coming Out of My Exhaust & What The Different Colours Mean

White Smoke From Your Exhaust: Causes, Diagnosis & How to Fix It